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	<title>The Mountain Shop &#187; Climbing trip</title>
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		<title>Boulder Canyon Cragging</title>
		<link>http://themountainshop.com/blogcenter/francisco-tharp/2010/03/25/boulder-canyon-cragging/</link>
		<comments>http://themountainshop.com/blogcenter/francisco-tharp/2010/03/25/boulder-canyon-cragging/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Mar 2010 18:53:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Francisco Tharp</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bouldering]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Climbing trip]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hiking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://themountainshop.com/?p=2310</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p class="wp-caption-text">Adam, grinning up Grins, 5.8, on the Happy Hour Crag.</p>
<p>Once upon a spring on Colorado’s Front Range, it was warm and sunny, then snowy and cold, then warm and sunny again. And while it was warm and sunny, the climbing bug bit me. Hard. So I put on my T-shirt and shorts, packed a bag, and went climbing in Boulder Canyon for the first time. I had heard plenty about the historically rich climbing area west of The People’s Republic, and I must say it lived up to its reputation: fast, easy access; quality rock; a lifetime of short-but-sweet trad and sport routes alike; and big time weekend crowds.</p>
<p>On Friday my friend Adam and I climbed on the Happy Hour Wall. We warmed up on a couple 5.7s on the climber’s left side of the wall: Are We Not Men and Are We Not Robots. Both were exceptional for their grade, and featured an exposed, juggy mini-roof to pull over. Gear was thin but possible on top, but would feel pretty darn run out for a beginning leader. A fall on the roof would be bad news as your last pro is at our feet above a low angle [Read More]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_2311" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 234px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-2311" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/DSCN1420-224x300.jpg" alt="Adam, grinning up Grins, 5.8, on the Happy Hour Crag." width="224" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Adam, grinning up Grins, 5.8, on the Happy Hour Crag.</p></div>
<p>Once upon a spring on Colorado’s Front Range, it was warm and sunny, then snowy and cold, then warm and sunny again. And while it was warm and sunny, the climbing bug bit me. Hard. So I put on my T-shirt and shorts, packed a bag, and went climbing in <a href="http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_canyon/105744222" target="_blank">Boulder Canyon</a> for the first time. I had heard plenty about the historically rich climbing area west of The People’s Republic, and I must say it lived up to its reputation: fast, easy access; quality rock; a lifetime of short-but-sweet trad and sport routes alike; and big time weekend crowds.</p>
<p>On Friday my friend Adam and I climbed on the <a href="http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_canyon/105744626" target="_blank">Happy Hour Wall</a>. We warmed up on a couple 5.7s on the climber’s left side of the wall: <em>Are We Not Men</em> and <em>Are We Not Robots</em>. Both were exceptional for their grade, and featured an exposed, juggy mini-roof to pull over. Gear was thin but possible on top, but would feel pretty darn run out for a beginning leader. A fall on the roof would be bad news as your last pro is at our feet above a low angle slab. Then we moved right and Adam put up <em>Twofers</em>, a deceivingly easy 5.8 with a surprise jug as you pull around a slightly larger, but more protected roof. We finished the day with <em>Nightcap</em>, an awesome 5.9 with a dihedral finger-crack crux.</p>
<div id="attachment_2312" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-2312" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/DSCN1506-300x224.jpg" alt="Ronnie, clipping the bolts on her first trad lead. Yahoo! Her life will never be the same, I'm sure." width="300" height="224" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Ronnie, clipping the bolts on her first trad lead. Yahoo! Her life will never be the same, I&#39;m sure.</p></div>
<p>The next day, Saturday, Ronnie joined Adam and I and led her first trad route, <em>Ho Hum </em>on <a href="http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_canyon/105744641" target="_blank">The Boulderado Wall</a>. The day’s crux turned out to be crossing the busy road from the parking pull out to the crag, which the guidebook says has a 1-5 minute approach, and involves a death-sprint across the busiest climbing access road in America. We figured the biggest risk was probably getting hit by a car and flying into the creek below, so we roped up and simul-climbed across the asphalt, ready to team arrest on gravel at a moment’s notice. JK, LOL, LMNOP. <em>Jam It</em> is another great climb, although the sweet, steep hand crack section is but a tease, being only 7 feet long and all. I thought <em>Idle Hands</em>, 5.6, was perhaps the nicest climb on the wall. It’s a thinly protected face climb that’s steep for its grade, and requires some precision<a href="http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/HMckelligott/-strse-408/Stopper-Set-%234-dsh-13/Detail.bok" target="_blank"> </a><a href="http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/HMckelligott/-strse-408/Stopper-Set-%234-dsh-13/Detail.bok" target="_blank">nut craft</a> (and don&#8217;t forget the C3s!). I also got a chance to rappel the kinks out of my new 8mm half rope tag line (for long rappels, but relatively obsolete in Boulder Canyon).</p>
<p>We cruised down canyon to The Bihedral crag for the afternoon. Arriving at this climbing area felt kind of like transforming into a bowling pin on tournament night. So many people were on the deck above the lower tier that we put on helmets to scramble up. Every single route with bolts on it was occupied and then some, so we stuck to <a href="http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/HMckelligott/-strse-Climbing-cln-Protection-cln-Cams/Categories.bok?active=leftpanel" target="_blank">plugging cams </a>and jamming cracks. We found the only open space available on the far climber’s left side, and climbed <em>Tool King</em>, 5.8, and <em>Fly In Ointment</em>, 5.10, before flailing on top-rope on <em>Edge of Reality, </em>5.12 R. My lead up <em>Fly In Ointment </em>went a lot like a Chris Sharma movie: scream and dangle! Scream and dangle! Scream and dangle! Chat with my belayer, scream and not dangle!</p>
<p>I recommend Boulder  Canyon for anyone, especially on a weekday, and especially for beginning trad climbers looking for quality moderate and easy routes with solid rock and protection opportunities.</p>
<p>Happy spring, happy climbing season! A la muerte!</p>
<p><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-2313" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/DSCN1442.JPG" alt="DSCN1442" width="479" height="640" /></p>
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		<title>Moon light election night</title>
		<link>http://themountainshop.com/blogcenter/francisco-tharp/2009/11/09/moon-light-election-night/</link>
		<comments>http://themountainshop.com/blogcenter/francisco-tharp/2009/11/09/moon-light-election-night/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 14:58:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Francisco Tharp</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bum]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Climbing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Climbing trip]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Joshua Tree]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[politics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Red Rocks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[spiritual]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://themountainshop.com/?p=981</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[As we watched other fire circles from afar, and listened to tribal cries echoing between granite monoliths, I though of Ed Abbey's line from his Havasu chapter in Desert Solitaire: "Like the Taoist Chuang-tse, I worried about butterflies and who was dreaming what."  [Read More]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: left;">
<div id="attachment_982" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 185px"><a href="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/DSC_0037.JPG"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-982 " title="DSC_0037" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/DSC_0037-150x150.jpg" alt="Julia Morton on the sharp end, feeling strong in J-Tree after two weeks in Yosemite and a week in Red Rocks. Yes, those guns are fully licensed." width="175" height="175" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Julia Morton on the sharp end, feeling strong in J-Tree after two weeks in Yosemite and a week in Red Rocks. Yes, those guns are fully licensed.</p></div>
<p>Pulling down on the sickness, sending the gnar, devouring vertical terrain – that, in the parlance of our times, is what climbing trips are supposed to be all about, right?</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Well, I have a confession: my favorite part about spending time as a climbing bum is actually the bumming more than the climbing, especially at night. I like the campfire circles, the guitars songs, the boxed wine and the merry-maker wandering through campgrounds. This is where the midcountry really comes to life.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">November 4<sup>th</sup>, 2008: Exactly a year ago I was climbing and traveling with friends in <a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/105720495" target="_blank">Joshua Tree National Park, California.</a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">We had spent a week in Red Rocks, Nevada, were about halfway through a little over a week in J Tree (including Halloween), and were going to head to Indian Creek for a week after that. After inflating my confidence on Red Rocks 5.10s, I was finding humility on J Tree 5.9s.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">
<div id="attachment_983" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><a href="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/DSC_0144.JPG"><img class="size-medium wp-image-983" title="DSC_0144" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/DSC_0144-300x201.jpg" alt="Eat your heart out Santa Claus. Judith Robertson finding presence in a J-Tree chimney." width="300" height="201" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Eat your heart out Santa Claus. Judith Robertson finding presence in a J-Tree chimney.</p></div>
<p>After climbing all day in the <a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/real_hidden_valley/105720636" target="_blank">Real Hidden Valley</a> we relaxed in camp behind our giant boulder wind break.</p>
<div class="mceTemp" style="text-align: left;">
<div id="attachment_986" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 211px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-986" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/DSC_0120-201x300.jpg" alt="Camp boulder, complete with an A-0 bolt line up the face." width="201" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Camp boulder, complete with an A-0 bolt line up the face.</p></div>
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<p>In the front country, Obama and McCain fought their final fights for the White House, and I struggled with a classic midcountry dilemma: tune out and bliss out, or tune in and embrace conscious membership in society. The elections were, indeed, weighing on my mind. I had caught Obama fever, even volunteered on the campaign trail.</p>
<div id="attachment_987" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 310px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-987" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/DSC_0058-300x201.jpg" alt="Catching up on politics in the VW van." width="300" height="201" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Matt Bynum, Joe Dyer, and Julia Morton catching up on politics between pitches in the VW van.</p></div>
<p>But without cell service or internet access, and with pretty fuzzy radio reception, I defaulted to ignorance. So, my climbing partners and I settled in to the heart of midcountry: climbing camp night life. We prepared food by lantern and headlamp to share with our nieghbors.</p>
<p style="text-align: center"><img class="size-medium wp-image-989 aligncenter" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/DSC_0103-201x300.jpg" alt="DSC_0103" width="201" height="300" /></p>
<p>On our walk back from the crags, a camper named Chokae’ &#8212; whose resume includes such things as massage therapist, videographer, card-carrying witch, <a href="http://tl-ph.facebook.com/group.php?gid=38162389881" target="_blank">frolickologist</a>, and psychic – was once again starting the fire and pouring the wine at his campsite in Hidden Valley Campground.</p>
<div id="attachment_991" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 211px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-991" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/DSC_0418-201x300.jpg" alt="DSC_0418" width="201" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Chokae&#39;, the frolicologist and climbing camp wiseman.</p></div>
</div>
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<div class="mceTemp" style="text-align: left;"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-992" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/DSC_0355-300x201.jpg" alt="DSC_0355" width="300" height="201" /></div>
<p>We sat around the fire with friends and strangers alike waiting for a cinnamon and sugar butternut squash to cook in foil on the fire. Chokae’ (pronounced like Choke-eye) didn’t climb much, but he did seem to enjoy the climbers’ camps. He had just been in Yosemite for a while, and was enjoying the social scene in J-tree. He was a bit of a spiritual and emotional mentor to many in the nomadic community. Some young guys who Chokai had rescued that day from a poorly planned and even more poorly executed mushroom trip were groggily recounting their experience, which consisted mostly of ensuring everyone that, “dude, you don’t even know, I was tripping balls.” Later, I sat on the ground next to Chokae’ and he told me stories about philosophizing with <a href="http://www.ramdass.org/" target="_blank">Ram Dass</a>. He stopped suddenly, smiled down at me from his high, mesh lawn chair, and said, “You know, you should go out at sunset, draw a circle in the sand, and walk counter-clockwise around it. It will blow your mind.” (Side note: a year later I did, and about circle number three I felt tingly, wild, spiritual.)</div>
<div class="mceTemp" style="text-align: left;">
<div id="attachment_994" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 211px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-994" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/DSC_0345-201x300.jpg" alt="Moonlight climbers en route to the keg on Intersection Rock via Upper Right Ski Track (5.3)" width="201" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Moonlight climbers en route to the keg on Intersection Rock via Upper Right Ski Track (5.3)</p></div>
<p>Down the road some campers were celebrating up on top of intersection rock: we watched headlamps ascend a fixed rope up the 5.3 <a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree_national_park/hidden_valley_campground/105721723" target="_blank">Upper Right Ski Track</a>, and other headlamps rappel off the other side. They had hauled a couple kegs up there, and from the sound of some loud coaching, they were hauling some very beginner climbers up there, too.</div>
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<p>The stars were bright despite the nearly full moon, and the landscape felt lunar in the white moon light. The spiny, Dr.-Seussian Joshua Trees profiled on the dusky horizon, and the sharpness of the night&#8217;s cold felt impossible, hallucinatory compared to the intense sun and heat of the day.</p>
<p>I left Chokae&#8217;s fire to stroll the campground with my friends, Julia, Joe and Luke (Luke, who we had just met, had ridden his bike from southwest British Columbia to Joshua Tree, and was sharing our camp). As we watched other fire circles from afar, and listened to tribal cries echoing between granite monoliths, I though of Ed Abbey&#8217;s line from his <a href="http://www.hkhinc.com/arizona/havasu/articles/havasuabbey.htm" target="_blank">Havasupai chapter </a>in <em>Desert Solitaire</em>: &#8220;Like the Taoist Chuang-tse, I worried about butterflies and who was dreaming what.&#8221;</p>
<p><img class="size-medium wp-image-997 alignright" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/DSC_0363-300x201.jpg" alt="DSC_0363" width="300" height="201" /></p>
<p>I imagined Obama and McCain in a climbing camp: McCain, complaining around the fire that Barack had short-roped him on his redpoint attempt, and Obama, fist bumping the rangers for not ticketing his overdue camping fees.  In the surreality of a Joshua Tree night, politics &#8212; even a &#8220;ground-breaking&#8221; election like this &#8212; was a universe apart.</p></div>
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<p>Around midnight, after walking back to camp, Julia and I sat in her Subaru and scrolled through the radio stations. A D.C.-area native and politically involved and concientious woman, Julia seemed even more torn between active awareness and the easy romance of drop-out bumhood.</p>
<div id="attachment_996" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 160px"><a href="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/The-Old-Woman.JPG"><img class="size-thumbnail wp-image-996" title="The Old Woman" src="http://themountainshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/The-Old-Woman-150x150.jpg" alt="The Old Woman: 3, 2, 1, lift off. " width="150" height="150" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">The Old Woman: 3, 2, 1, lift off. </p></div>
<p>Finally we found decent reception we listened to melodramatic election updates.  With the seats layed back, we nodded off to blue-this, red-that, delegates and percentage points and &#8220;The latest polls show&#8230;&#8221; We headed to the tent, figured we could wait until morning to find out. Around 5 o&#8217;clock in the morning, however, we heard the news. A shout from across the campground woke us up: “Obama!” And then silence. I burrowed into my bag, and went back to sleep.</p>
<p>A few hours later, to celebrate, my neighbors and I did what we do best: we packed up and went climbing. The president may have changed, but <a href="http://www.yourclimbing.com/blog-gravity_and_friction_in_climbing" target="_blank">gravity and friction </a>were still doing their age-old thing.</div>
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