I got off of work at 3:00 p.m. on Tuesday and met Jason at Hyalite for some afternoon laps.  The sun sets between 4:30 and 5:00 these days, and we had just enough time to hike in and hang the rope before the headlamps came out.  We spent the next hour cruising up various lines of WI 3-3+ as a mostly-full moon painted an eerie glow on the mountains across the canyon.

It was completely dark by the time I put Jason on belay for his last turn.  I doused my headlamp and took solace in the company of the winter constellations until my eyes adjusted to the dimness of the moonlit night.

As Jason picked his way up the climb, I privately enjoyed one of those priceless liminal moments – suspensions in time when self-awareness is at its most complete.  With stars shining above me, the luminous moon hovering just above the canyon, and Jason’s headlamp turning the wall of crystallized water into a monochrome fireworks show, I gave profound and silent thanks for the perfection of the moment.  This is precisely the type of experience I was hoping to have when I came out [Read More]]]>

Hyalite Canyon from the "Unnamed Wall"

I got off of work at 3:00 p.m. on Tuesday and met Jason at Hyalite for some afternoon laps.  The sun sets between 4:30 and 5:00 these days, and we had just enough time to hike in and hang the rope before the headlamps came out.  We spent the next hour cruising up various lines of WI 3-3+ as a mostly-full moon painted an eerie glow on the mountains across the canyon.

It was completely dark by the time I put Jason on belay for his last turn.  I doused my headlamp and took solace in the company of the winter constellations until my eyes adjusted to the dimness of the moonlit night.

As Jason picked his way up the climb, I privately enjoyed one of those priceless liminal moments – suspensions in time when self-awareness is at its most complete.  With stars shining above me, the luminous moon hovering just above the canyon, and Jason’s headlamp turning the wall of crystallized water into a monochrome fireworks show, I gave profound and silent thanks for the perfection of the moment.  This is precisely the type of experience I was hoping to have when I came out here.

There was nothing exceptional, really, about the climbing that evening.  This was not an expedition that we had planned for months.  This was not a test-piece project that we had studied and practiced.  This was not a day-long, multi-pitch, 10,000 calorie, miles-to-go-before-I-sleep epic.  This was a pretty average after-work top-rope session – the kind you’ll have a hundred times in your climbing career — and it’s exactly what I wanted when I left Atlanta in October.

Jason pulls the crux bulge on a nameless, rarely-forming line

There are very few places in the world where I can work an eight-hour day and still have time to run laps on an ice climb before dinner.  The fact that this is probably the least exceptional climbing day I’ll have this week is amazing to me.  I am happy here.

It’s easy to praise the good fortune that has brought me to this place – to think how lucky I am that I can do these things that I love so much as often as I am able – and, absolutely, good fortune is an ingredient.  I’m fortunate that I was born in a country where I can leave my subtropical home and drive to a place where I can climb frozen waterfalls for six months without having to change so much as my phone number, and I’m fortunate that I have friends and family who will support me in this endeavor.  Still, good fortune can only account for so much.

Michelle's first day on ice

It’s not a matter of random chance that I landed here in Bozeman.  Indeed, I came here precisely because of the outdoor opportunities.  I wanted to live in a place where a three-hour break in my day and a little motivation meant that I could go ice climbing.  Tuesday night exists as the culmination of that goal, and, for that, it is truly exceptional.

Adventure and recreation are of high priority in my world, and they’re integral in my endless quest for personal balance.  If they’re priorities to you (and, if you’re reading this on The Mountain Shop website, chances are good that they are), I encourage you to find a place to be where they can be part of your everyday life.  If you love to ski, don’t let skiing become a vacation-only activity; move to Colorado or Idaho and ski 80 days a year.  If you love whitewater, go to Asheville or Chattanooga where you could try out a new local creek after every rainy day.  If you’re captivated by desert canyons, spend some time in Utah.  If you love climbing, your biggest problem will be deciding which world-class destination suits you the best.

A little crossover magic

Adventure is like a friendly little leprechaun: it knows exactly where to find good fortune, but it won’t come looking for you.  Go find it.

If you fall into the second or third description and plan to spend some time this week searching for gear, then take a second to check out my time tested favorites to see if there is something that you might want to supplement your holiday haul.

Patagonia Fleece

(***Please note that while the gear fashion show displayed below did take place inside, I opted for photos taken in front of an outdoor painting to present a more authentic feel.)

1.  Patagonia Fleece – I love Patagonia because they are such an eco-conscious company, but I also love them because their products last forever.  My lightweight fleece is a very light very and warm piece of gear that has [Read More]]]> The Outdoor Enthusiast fell into one of three categories on December 26^th.  If they were really lucky then his or her loved ones managed to pick out the perfect size, style, weight, and technically rated Christmas present.   A second category found the adventurer with beaucoups gift cards to use at their local outdoor store.  More likely, however, one woke up the day after Christmas with gifts that weren’t exactly what they wanted for his or her 2010 exploits and therefore needed to exchange the presents.

If you fall into the second or third description and plan to spend some time this week searching for gear, then take a second to check out my time tested favorites to see if there is something that you might want to supplement your holiday haul.

Patagonia Fleece

(***Please note that while the gear fashion show displayed below did take place inside, I opted for photos taken in front of an outdoor painting to present a more authentic feel.)

1.  Patagonia Fleece – I love Patagonia because they are such an eco-conscious company, but I also love them because their products last forever.  My lightweight fleece is a very light very and warm piece of gear that has traveled over 6,000 miles with me.  I bought it five years ago, and the only sign of wear has been a slight fading in the dark black color.

WM Sleeping Bag

2.  Western Mountaineering Sleeping Bag – If you have A LOT of extra Christmas cash then definitely consider a Western Mountaineering sleeping bag.  I love them!  I have a 45F and a 25F bag.  Again, they have both lasted several thousands miles.  Western uses some of the highest quality 800 Fill Power down in the industry, so they are both uber light and most importantly they keep this cold-blooded southerner warm on chilly nights.

MH Down Jacket

3.  Mountain Hardware Down Jacket – I don’t know if I can stress how much I like to be warm; a desert climate is ideal.  However, when I do have to face the cold and snow there is no better piece of gear to wear up top than my Mountain Hardware down jacket, it has great loft and utilizes body heat to keep you nice and toasty.  After four years mine isn’t quite as puffy as it used to be, but it is still my go to winter jacket.

SmartWool Sock

4.  SmartWool Socks – If you just have a little bit of left over Christmas cash then think about investing in some quality socks.  I personally like SmartWool because they wick away moisture really well.  I never realized how important socks were until I developed the initial symptoms of Trench Foot on the Appalachian Trail.  At that point I realized that a pair of good socks is just as important as a pair of good shoes.

Okay, friends, that concludes my list.  Unfortunately, most of my friends and family think I have way TOO much gear and refuse to buy me anymore for Christmas, but my sweet husband ended up with a nice pile of gift cards so I look forward to helping him spend them on some great technical items this week.  After all, we have some big adventures planned for 2010!

We’ve had a great year and could have only done it with you.

Have a wonderful holiday. Enjoy the fresh snow if you have a chance.

We’ll be here for all things you need backcountry and can’t wait to see you again.

While a rogue storm recently turned the homeland into a snow globe, I’ve been enjoying relatively mild weather up here in Montana.  It’s been hovering right around the freezing point for a week now, and a lot of the ice that had been iron-hard prior to the festival is now soft and forgiving.  We’ve taken advantage of the favorable conditions with several dawn patrol missions into the canyon.  The hikes have been cleansing, the climbing has been classic, and I’m constantly reminded why I had daydreamed about this winter for months.

Just another December day in Bozeman...

When I say “we” in reference to my climbing outings, I’m almost always referring to my new friend, Jason.  As I mentioned a while back, Jason responded to a post I put up on the Montana Ice website.  He was interested in a weekday partner, and I had no real obligations at the time.  Since then, we’ve tied in together no less than twice a week, and we are gradually turning into a pretty good team.

Jason tests the bottom of "Curtain" -- Hyalite Canyon

It’s a rare and beautiful thing when you happen upon a good partner in the mountains; [Read More]]]>

While a rogue storm recently turned the homeland into a snow globe, I’ve been enjoying relatively mild weather up here in Montana.  It’s been hovering right around the freezing point for a week now, and a lot of the ice that had been iron-hard prior to the festival is now soft and forgiving.  We’ve taken advantage of the favorable conditions with several dawn patrol missions into the canyon.  The hikes have been cleansing, the climbing has been classic, and I’m constantly reminded why I had daydreamed about this winter for months.

Just another December day in Bozeman...

When I say “we” in reference to my climbing outings, I’m almost always referring to my new friend, Jason.  As I mentioned a while back, Jason responded to a post I put up on the Montana Ice website.  He was interested in a weekday partner, and I had no real obligations at the time.  Since then, we’ve tied in together no less than twice a week, and we are gradually turning into a pretty good team.

Jason tests the bottom of "Curtain" -- Hyalite Canyon

It’s a rare and beautiful thing when you happen upon a good partner in the mountains; there are so many variables in the equation, and each one brings a new chance for incompatibility.

I’ve mentioned “balance” in past posts, and the ideal partner is a lesson in that most valuable of concepts.

The last thing I want in a partner is someone who is unsafe.  I don’t want to worry about unnecessary leader falls and inadequate anchor set-ups when I’m eight miles and at least as many hours away from help.  At the same time, a good partner is driven toward challenges that may require some uncomfortable commitment.  Ideally, each of you will be able to honestly assess the strengths and weaknesses of the team, and you can choose objectives that will represent challenges but remain within the boundaries of acceptable risk.

To that point, an ideal partner will be clear about hopes and fears and respect mine.

If I’m just not feeling it that day, for whatever reason, I don’t want to be pressured into a potentially dangerous situation.  On the other hand, I also don’t want to be let off the hook every time I’m not psyched to send, so I need someone around who will keep me from ignoring the three a.m. alarm and call me unprintable names when I try to give up my turn on lead.

A good partner will be a friend.  This isn’t a business relationship.  If every conversation we have pertains to the task at hand, the relationship will quickly become monotonous and unfulfilling.  I want jokes and concerns and updates and dreams – anything to make the five miles back to the car a little more enjoyable.  But, hey, we climb because we love it, and climbing is often the most important shared experience you’ll have with any partner.  I want to know about epic days and big wall goals, hardest ticks and harrowing falls, favorite pieces of gear and stuff still on the wish list.

I like toys.

Speaking of gear, it’s often what can make or break a climbing relationship.  Ideally, your partner will love all of that shiny goodness as much as you do and take equal pride in the ability to use it.  If there’s a rope laying on the ground, you better believe I want to see how symmetrically I can coil it each and every time, but I don’t want to have to coil it each and every time.

A little generosity with the gear goes a long way on those days when that extra rack of Screamer draws is just enough weight to make the hike home a miserable experience.

“Did you ask if I could carry those for you?  Absolutely, I can, and thanks for stacking both ropes back there when I was using my hot breath to romance the ice out of that frozen screw…”

These are just a few examples of what makes for a good partner, and, truthfully, none of this is that revolutionary.  Most of these examples break down into simple rules that can be applied to pretty much any important relationship you’ll ever have: don’t be reckless, but preserve a sense of adventure; don’t engage in peer pressure, but push each other to be the best that you can be; have interesting and varied things to discuss, but know how to talk shop when the time comes; and be generous with chores (I swear I’ll get to those dishes, Michelle).

Thankful for the belay on "Switchback Falls" -- Hyalite Canyon

In the next few months, I have some friends coming out here with whom I’ve shared many of my most treasured experiences, in the mountains and otherwise.  When I write about their visits, I’ll go deeper into what makes these people my favorite partners and best friends.

In this holiday season, I encourage everyone out there to tell their favorite partners and best friends what makes them so; I’m sure it will help tip the balance back in a favorable direction.

Telemarking, shredding, bindings – I know these words, I just have no clue what they are or what they mean.  You see, I grew up in the South. I have spent my life in North Carolina, Alabama, and Virginia, so I am terrified of snow.  Don’t get me wrong, it is pretty at first and I always consider it a rare treat to see everything blanketed in white, but after the novelty wears off then comes the fear.

In the South we don’t know what to do when it snows.  Well, I take that back.  We think we know what to do.  For example, five days before the slightest chance of a wintery mix, we all rush to the grocery store and load up on milk and bread.  Even if we usually don’t eat bread or drink milk, we still buy it because that is what you do when it might snow.  Two days before a potential storm we check to make sure our flashlights have batteries inside them for when the power goes out, then the day before the possible threat we fill our bathtubs with water for when our faucets no longer work.

Jen Sledding

After that we [Read More]]]>

Brew Sledding

Telemarking, shredding, bindings – I know these words, I just have no clue what they are or what they mean.  You see, I grew up in the South. I have spent my life in North Carolina, Alabama, and Virginia, so I am terrified of snow.  Don’t get me wrong, it is pretty at first and I always consider it a rare treat to see everything blanketed in white, but after the novelty wears off then comes the fear.

In the South we don’t know what to do when it snows.  Well, I take that back.  We think we know what to do.  For example, five days before the slightest chance of a wintery mix, we all rush to the grocery store and load up on milk and bread.  Even if we usually don’t eat bread or drink milk, we still buy it because that is what you do when it might snow.  Two days before a potential storm we check to make sure our flashlights have batteries inside them for when the power goes out, then the day before the possible threat we fill our bathtubs with water for when our faucets no longer work.

Jen Sledding

After that we feel relatively prepared so we sit under five blankets and watch the windows and the weather channel to monitor the incoming front.  In the morning there is typically a light dusting on the ground.  And thank goodness we did all that prep work, because at that point everything shuts down.  Schools shut down, people avoid driving for several days, and for the rest of the year people can talk about what they did when the big storm came.

The thing is, this year it actually happened, we actually got a big storm.  And it came out of nowhere!  All of a sudden on Thursday the news forecasters predict a snowstorm that would come in overnight.  (Maybe they are waiting til the last minute now, because of their inaccuracy in the past?)  Then, the next morning, we woke up to several inches of white fluff on the ground and throughout the day the snow kept falling and falling and falling.  When it finally stopped, we had a foot-and-a-half outside our house – the last time I experienced something like this I was 9 years old!  This was a Christmas miracle… and a nightmare.

Brew and Jen

I hadn’t made it to the store before Thursday, I didn’t have my milk and bread, my bathtub wasn’t full of water, and my flashlights were nowhere to be found.  My husband and I don’t even have “snow clothes.”  It is true that NC, VA and WV do all have some “decent” snow slopes, but my speed threshold is 6 miles per hour, and other skiers don’t like it when I zig-zag in front of them a million times going down the green slopes, so we avoid the resorts, and the gear.  But I did have hiking gear, so with rain pants over leggings and a big puffy jacket, my husband Brew and I went out to explore the new world.

There were so many cars on the side of the road that it literally looked like a scene from Armageddon.  Amid the chaos, however, we found some friends with sleds and decided to give the whole winter sports thing another try.  Brew and I sledded until we had snow in all our clothes and our fingers felt like icicles.  We had races, we gave each other style points, but mostly we just laughed when the other person wiped out.

When we finally went back inside to warm up, we turned on the lights, took a shower, enjoyed a hot cup of cocoa and then curled up to watch a movie.

So while I’m still not ready to move to the North or to the West, I have to admit, I hope that it is a lot less than 15 years until we get another foot of snow. ; )

Just Jen...

The Bozeman Ice Festival was last weekend.  The festival – like its counterparts in Ouray, Cody, Valdez, et al – is organized to celebrate the local ice climbing culture, bring climbers together, and introduce new people to the sport.  On the schedule for the weekend were two competitions (a pro invitational on Thursday and an open on Saturday), several clinics, slideshows, movie premieres, gear expos, and, of course, beer specials.

On Thursday, the day of the pro comp, I drove into the canyon with Jason and his friend, Adam, to get in a few pitches before the weekend rush.  The recent frigid temps left the ice hard and dry, and we wore ourselves out on four- and five-swing pick placements on brittle flows.  The tough ice conditions and near-zero temperatures chased us after just a few hours, and we were hiking out with plenty of time to clean up and change for the movie later that night.

When we got back to the parking lot, though, we were met with a troubling scene.  Several somber-looking climbers were milling about, surrounded by trucks and snowmobiles emblazoned with the Gallatin Search [Read More]]]>

Adam and Jason rack up at the bottom of "Hangover" - Hyalite Canyon

The Bozeman Ice Festival was last weekend.  The festival – like its counterparts in Ouray, Cody, Valdez, et al – is organized to celebrate the local ice climbing culture, bring climbers together, and introduce new people to the sport.  On the schedule for the weekend were two competitions (a pro invitational on Thursday and an open on Saturday), several clinics, slideshows, movie premieres, gear expos, and, of course, beer specials.

On Thursday, the day of the pro comp, I drove into the canyon with Jason and his friend, Adam, to get in a few pitches before the weekend rush.  The recent frigid temps left the ice hard and dry, and we wore ourselves out on four- and five-swing pick placements on brittle flows.  The tough ice conditions and near-zero temperatures chased us after just a few hours, and we were hiking out with plenty of time to clean up and change for the movie later that night.

When we got back to the parking lot, though, we were met with a troubling scene.  Several somber-looking climbers were milling about, surrounded by trucks and snowmobiles emblazoned with the Gallatin Search and Rescue crest.  We didn’t want to ask any questions, but we knew there were only a few reasons the S&R crew might be around.  Best case scenario, they just wanted to be a presence at the festival because of the substantial increase in climbing population for the weekend.  Worst case is pretty much what happened.

Jason sizes up the crux pillar on "Cave Route" - Hyalite Canyon

I called Michelle when I regained cell service outside the canyon and was greeted with a voice much more frantic than usual.  She had read on the Bozeman news site that a climber had been killed in an avalanche that day.  I reassured her that it wasn’t me and relayed what we had seen in the parking lot.  I told her I didn’t know much more than that and asked if the article mentioned the name of the climber.  “Guy Lacelle,” she said.  “Apparently he was pretty famous.”

Guy Lacelle is on the short list of the greatest ice climbers in the world.  At 54, he had probably climbed more meters of ice than anyone, ever, and he is well known for soloing (climbing alone and unroped) some of the hardest ice lines ever completed.  As the headliner of the festival, he was scheduled to speak later that night following the premiere of a new climbing film in which he figured prominently.  Guy was climbing in the pro event when he died just after 9:30 in the morning on Thursday, December 10.

It’s a generally accepted truth among climbers that if you get after it long enough and hard enough, you’ll eventually have to deal with death of a close friend.  Thankfully, I’ve avoided any really personal hits so far, but there have been some close calls.  Even still, it’s not easy saying goodbye to the stars you admire from afar, and Guy’s death caps what has already been a rough year.

A close call... - Chugach National Forest, Alaska '04

When your friends and partners begin to push themselves toward higher and more committing objectives, it just becomes a race against time and luck, and when you reach the elite heights that Guy occupied, every project on every trip will test the limits of possibility.  As the home of the legendary Alex Lowe, Bozeman is all-too-well-acquainted with the dangers endemic to the elite climbing world.  All it takes is a quick glance into the guidebooks here to recognize how deeply his influence is still felt, even as this year marks the tenth anniversary of his tragic final climb on Tibet’s Shishapangma.

As you can imagine, the Ice Festival turned into a commemoration of Guy’s life.  Michelle and I went to the theater on Friday night and listened to story after story of Guy as a climber, friend, husband, and hero.

I am always impressed with the way the climbing community responds to tragedies like this one.  It is often said that climbing is a lifestyle, not a sport.  Certainly, it is not unique in this regard; I know many surfers, skiers, and endurance athletes who would say the same about their respective passions.  I find the “lifestyle” label to be especially accurate in these cases largely because of the responsibility each group accepts to address danger objectively and honestly.  Whether it’s a climber leaving the ground with a full rack of ice screws; a backcountry skier descending with shovel, probe, and beacon; or an ultra-runner packing gels and electrolyte tablets, each athlete is displaying a commitment to safety that begins with an honest study of accidents that have already taken place and equipment that could have prevented them.  This attention to detail and honest assessment of hazards and consequences is not something that disappears when one is not actively engaged in a sport; rather, it’s a skill-set that, once cultivated, becomes the modus operandi for life in general.  I am grateful for this.

Back to the sharp end on Monday. That's the warrior's way...

It’s hard to make sense of tragedies like Guy’s death, and these events definitely spark an “is it really worth it?” internal dilemma.  I’m not sure I’m capable of such words as will properly honor Guy, but it seemed disingenuous to ignore his death when it has so thoroughly impacted my experience here.

If I’m certain of any one thing, it’s that I’m not going to stop climbing; that’s a powerful place to start.

So, get out there, everyone.  Have fun.  Go hard and go light.  Set your sights on grand goals and commit.  Just be smart and, above all, be safe.

If you’re into these things, you should join us at our Old Town Fort Collins location tonight 6-8pm for our Customer Appreciation Night.

Stuff your stockings or your ski rack tonight – we’ll have a storewide 15% off sale.

We recently unveiled a new customer rewards program as well. You may have a $25 store credit waiting for you. That’s free money and it’s waiting for you to claim it.

Get the details on our events page.

All this hoopla with Tiger Woods over the past two weeks has made me appreciate being an outdoor athlete.  It also begs the question, do giants in the sporting world have an obligation to their fans to be not just great at their sport, but a great person as well?  I say no, Tiger Woods does not owe me anything.  I do not look to Tiger for any advice or examples of how to live my personal life.

But Tiger does have an obligation to Nike, EA Sports, Gillette and countless other sponsors to either be an upstanding guy or not get caught, because the truth is, I no longer want to own anything with Tiger’s image, likeness or signature on it.  (Okay, I admit, there is one exception.  I will still use Gillette razors because that’s what Roger Federer uses, and I want to use whatever the Fed uses.)  But in general, when a person signs on to sell a product we need to be able to trust that person, and I no longer trust Tiger Woods.

Outdoor Hero - Scott Williamson

My current distrust of Tiger led me to start thinking about heroes in the outdoor [Read More]]]>

Outdoor Hero - Warren Doyle

All this hoopla with Tiger Woods over the past two weeks has made me appreciate being an outdoor athlete.  It also begs the question, do giants in the sporting world have an obligation to their fans to be not just great at their sport, but a great person as well?  I say no, Tiger Woods does not owe me anything.  I do not look to Tiger for any advice or examples of how to live my personal life.

But Tiger does have an obligation to Nike, EA Sports, Gillette and countless other sponsors to either be an upstanding guy or not get caught, because the truth is, I no longer want to own anything with Tiger’s image, likeness or signature on it.  (Okay, I admit, there is one exception.  I will still use Gillette razors because that’s what Roger Federer uses, and I want to use whatever the Fed uses.)  But in general, when a person signs on to sell a product we need to be able to trust that person, and I no longer trust Tiger Woods.

Outdoor Hero - Scott Williamson

My current distrust of Tiger led me to start thinking about heroes in the outdoor world.  I have met so many people pursuing their love of the outdoors on shoestring budget in an attempt to test their human limits, inspire others, and enjoy the natural world.

Some of my own personal heroes include hikers Warren Doyle and Scott Williamson, ultra-runner David Horton, and kayaker Anna Levesque.  These folks are just as gifted and disciplined as anyone in mainstream sports, and yet they are also level-headed, unselfish and just as interested in you as you are in them.  These people are not well known outside of their specific sport and they are constantly struggling to do what they love and support themselves and a family, but in my opinion they have proven themselves humble, wise, and worthy to be called a role model.

Outdoor Hero - Anna Levesque

So I think the outdoor industry should give society a new version of role models.  I don’t think that these athletes should be paid millions of dollars, but how great it would be to have heroes that promote the outdoors, conservation, and a healthy lifestyle?  What if we had heroes that didn’t respond to the roar of the crowd, but instead gave 100% day after day because an inner voice kept pushing them forward?  What if instead of buying a jersey with someone’s name and number on it or sitting in the stands and eating nachos, people’s role models inspired them to go backpacking for the first time, take a kayaking lesson, or test themselves at a rock climbing clinic?

There are so many amazing people in the outdoor world with amazing stories, and I think it would do a lot of people a lot of good to hear their voice.  The world of professional sports is about more, more, and more, but the outdoor world is about doing more and needing less.

Outdoor Hero - David Horton

Now, don’t misunderstand me, I am a HUGE mainstream sports fan, and I am not saying that there won’t be an outdoor icon who is unfaithful to his/her spouse, or that they won’t use recreational drugs.  But as it stands right now, there are no outdoor athletes that I know of who have over-inflated egos because they sign multi-million dollar contracts, and they are not on their way to being a billionaire like Tiger.  Instead, they have chosen their sport out of love, personal growth, and an appreciation for the outdoors.  And I just think it would be cool, if the outdoor world introduced some of their heroes to the mainstream population.

With the trend of society rightly turning towards being more “green,” shouldn’t our sports heroes do the same?